Why Zanzibar deserves the detour in palace mode
Zanzibar is not a beach destination like the others. The Tanzanian archipelago combines white-sand beaches, preserved coral reefs and Swahili heritage that Stone Town, a UNESCO site, embodies perfectly. Luxury hotels concentrate in three zones: the East coast (Paje, Jambiani, Michamvi), the North tip (Nungwi, Kendwa) and the authentic South (Kizimkazi). Unlike the Maldives where the luxury offering standardises, Zanzibar proposes a diversity of addresses: private villas with butler (Xanadu Luxury Villas), committed eco-resorts (Sensations Eco-Chic, Ycona Eco-Luxury), Relais & Châteaux members (Zanzibar White Sand), intimate boutique hotels (Alma, TOA Hotel & Spa).
The East coast seduces with its spectacular tides that reveal turquoise lagoons as far as the eye can see, ideal for kitesurfing at Paje or snorkelling at Matemwe. The North offers permanent beaches without pronounced low tide, prized for their nocturnal animation at Nungwi. The South remains confidential, facing the dolphins of Kizimkazi, far from mass tourism. Rates vary from 400 to 1200 dollars per night according to season and standing, with a peak between June and October then December-February.
When to go: seasonality and real climate
Zanzibar experiences two dry seasons and two rainy seasons. High season runs from June to October: pleasant temperatures (25-28°C), calm sea, clear skies, ideal for diving and snorkelling. December to February constitutes the second dry season, warmer (30-32°C), perfect for end-of-year festivities but also the most expensive. Long rains (March-May) and short rains (November) make certain roads difficult to access and close a few lodges. April remains the least recommended month: daily rains, high humidity, mediocre underwater visibility.
Kitesurfers favour June-September for the constant winds at Paje. Divers choose October-November for maximum visibility and manta rays. Honeymoon couples opt for July-August despite the high rates, guarantee of optimal conditions. Book 4 to 6 months in advance for the best villas on the East coast, where the offer remains limited to around twenty rooms per establishment.
| Month | Climate | Average rate/night | Crowd | Recommendation |
|---|
| June-August | Dry, 25-28°C | 800-1200$ | High | Optimal diving |
| Sept-Oct | Dry, 26-29°C | 700-1000$ | Medium-High | Best value |
| Dec-Feb | Dry, 30-32°C | 900-1300$ | Very high | Festivities, book early |
| March-May | Long rains | 400-600$ | Low | To avoid |
| November | Short rains | 500-700$ | Low | Diving possible |
Where to stay: East coast, North or South
The East coast of Zanzibar concentrates the most exclusive addresses. Paje is home to Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa, a Relais & Châteaux member with 12 villas feet in the sand, holistic spa and gastronomic restaurant. The village remains authentic, a few fish restaurants, kitesurf shops, no all-inclusive complexes. Michamvi, isolated peninsula, welcomes Xanadu Luxury Villas: five private villas facing the Indian Ocean, infinity pool, dedicated butler, 55 km from the airport (1h15 by car). Jambiani, preserved fishing village, proposes Alma Boutique Hotel, 10 rooms on 7 km of beach lined with coconut palms.
The North seduces with its permanent beaches and its animation. Nungwi, northernmost tip, concentrates resorts and restaurants. Safira Blu Luxury Resort & Villas stands out for its intimacy (20 rooms), its coral reef ideal for snorkelling and its contemporary Swahili luxury. Kissnakani, north of Nungwi, offers a protected beach and a calm village five minutes' walk away.
The South remains confidential. Kizimkazi, extreme south of the island, is home to Johari Beach Resort, intimate resort facing the dolphins, 1h15 from Stone Town. The village retains its 12th-century mosque and its traditional fishermen. No mass tourism, no souvenir shops, authenticity guaranteed.
Choice criteria by profile:
- Honeymoon couples: East coast (Xanadu, Zanzibar White Sand) for intimacy and butler service
- Families with children: North (Tembo Kiwengwa Resort) for multiple pools and kids' clubs
- Kitesurfers: Paje (Samawa Living) for direct access to the spot and community atmosphere
- Divers: Nungwi (Safira Blu) for coral reefs five minutes by boat
- Eco-conscious travellers: Pwani Mchangani (Sensations Eco-Chic) or Marumbi (Ycona Eco-Luxury) for environmental certifications
Realistic budget for a palace stay
A 4-night stay in a 5-star hotel in Zanzibar costs between 3200 and 5000 dollars per couple, excluding international flights. Private villas with butler (Xanadu, Zanzibar White Sand) charge 900 to 1200 dollars per night in high season, breakfast and airport transfers included. Intimate boutique hotels (Alma, TOA Hotel & Spa, Samawa Living) propose 400 to 700 dollars per night, half-board basis.
All-inclusive resorts like Tembo Kiwengwa display 600 to 900 dollars per night for two, including all meals, alcoholic drinks and non-motorised water activities. Eco-resorts (Sensations Eco-Chic, Ycona Eco-Luxury) sit between 500 and 800 dollars, with supplement for private excursions (diving, dolphins, spice tour).
Airport-hotel transfers vary according to distance: 80 to 150 dollars per journey for the East coast (55-60 km), 60 to 100 dollars for the North (45 km), 100 to 180 dollars for the South (Kizimkazi, 1h15 drive). Most palaces include a transfer in their honeymoon packages or stays of 5 nights minimum.
Budget breakdown 4 nights (couple, high season):
- Private villa accommodation East coast: 4000-4800$
- Return airport transfers: 200-300$
- Dinners outside hotel (2 Stone Town restaurants): 200-300$
- Excursions (diving, spice tour, dolphins): 400-600$
- Spa and treatments: 300-500$
- Total: 5100-6500$
Travellers who choose a boutique hotel in Paje or Jambiani with half-board can reduce the accommodation budget to 2400-3200$ for 4 nights, for a total of 3700-5000$ with excursions and spa.
Tables and gastronomy: beyond hotel restaurants
Zanzibari gastronomy blends Arab, Indian and Swahili influences. The best hotels propose gastronomic tables: the restaurant at Zanzibar White Sand serves Mediterranean-Swahili fusion cuisine, grilled catch of the day, local spices, South African wine list. Xanadu Luxury Villas offers private chef service in each villa, personalised menus according to preferences.
In Stone Town, The Rock Restaurant (Michamvi Pingwe) remains the iconic address: restaurant set on a rock accessible at low tide, seafood, Indian Ocean view, reservation required 2 weeks in advance in high season. Emerson Spice Tea House (Stone Town) proposes a table d'hôtes on the terrace, authentic Swahili cuisine, sunset over the medina rooftops. Forodhani Gardens (Stone Town seafront) gathers each evening street-food stands: octopus skewers, Zanzibari pizzas, sugar-cane juice, local atmosphere, 5 to 10 dollars per person.
East-coast resorts organise private beach dinners: table set on the sand, lanterns, butler service, seafood tasting menu, 150 to 300 dollars per couple according to the hotel. Samawa Living (Paje) proposes Swahili cooking classes: local market in the morning, preparation with the chef, shared lunch, 80 dollars per person.
| Restaurant | Location | Speciality | Budget/pers | Reservation |
|---|
| The Rock | Michamvi Pingwe | Seafood, rock view | 60-90$ | 2 weeks |
| Emerson Spice | Stone Town | Swahili table d'hôtes | 50-70$ | 1 week |
| Forodhani Gardens | Stone Town | Local street food | 5-10$ | No |
| Zanzibar White Sand | Paje | Mediterranean fusion | 80-120$ | Residents |
| The Palms | Bwejuu | Gastronomic all-inclusive | Included | Residents |
Marine experiences and diving
Zanzibar offers some of the most preserved seabeds in the Indian Ocean. Dive sites concentrate around Mnemba Atoll (North-East), protected marine reserve: green turtles, dolphins, manta rays, reef sharks, visibility 20-30 metres. PADI centres at the hotels (Safira Blu, Sensations Eco-Chic, Tembo Kiwengwa) organise daily outings: 80 to 120 dollars per dive, equipment included, baptisms possible.
Beach snorkelling works at Nungwi and Kendwa, reefs accessible 50 metres from the shore. The East coast requires going out by boat at low tide, hotels supply masks and snorkels free of charge. Kizimkazi (South) proposes dolphin outings in a traditional boat: departure 6 a.m., observation of humpback and common dolphins, swimming possible if the animals approach, 60 to 80 dollars per person, 2h30 excursion.
Kitesurfing at Paje attracts riders from June to September: constant wind 15-25 knots, shallow lagoon at low tide, IKO-certified schools. Samawa Living proposes kite packages: private lessons 100 dollars/hour, equipment rental 50 dollars/day, secure storage. Beginners favour July-August for the most stable conditions.
Spice Tour excursions (half-day) visit plantations of cloves, vanilla, cinnamon, cardamom: tasting, botanical explanations, spice market, 40 to 60 dollars per person. Hotels also organise visits to Jozani Forest, Zanzibar's only primary forest, habitat of endemic red colobus, 2h guided walk, 30 dollars.
Practical tips and logistics
Airport transfers: Abeid Amani Karume international airport lies 10 km from Stone Town. East-coast hotels (Paje, Jambiani, Michamvi) are 50-60 km (1h-1h15), the North (Nungwi, Matemwe) 45-55 km (1h), the South (Kizimkazi) 70 km (1h30). Most palaces include private transfers in air-conditioned 4x4 in their packages. Official taxis charge 60 to 80 dollars to the North, 80 to 100 dollars to the East, negotiation possible.
Visa: French, Belgian and Swiss nationals obtain a 90-day tourist visa on arrival: 50 dollars in cash (euros accepted), passport valid 6 months. E-visa available online before departure, same rate, avoids the queue.
Health: Zanzibar is a low-risk malaria zone. Seafront hotels benefit from the sea breeze that limits mosquitoes. Preventive treatment (Malarone, Doxycycline) recommended by the Institut Pasteur, especially for stays including the mainland (Serengeti, Ngorongoro). Up-to-date vaccines: hepatitis A and B, typhoid, yellow fever compulsory if coming from an endemic country.
Currency: The Tanzanian shilling (TZS) is the official currency, yet luxury hotels charge in US dollars. Bank cards accepted in palaces, cash necessary for Stone Town and the villages. ATMs available at the airport and Stone Town, withdrawals limited to 400 000 TZS (150 dollars) per transaction.
Connection: Wifi works correctly in 5-star hotels, sufficient speed for video conferences. East-coast villages have random 4G coverage. Local SIM cards (Vodacom, Airtel) available at the airport: 10 dollars for 10 Go, passport required for registration.
Respect for customs: Zanzibar remains a 98% Muslim island. Correct dress required outside beaches and hotels: shoulders and knees covered at Stone Town and in the villages. Alcohol available only in hotels and tourist restaurants. Ramadan (variable dates): local restaurants closed during the day, hotels unaffected.
Best hotels for:
- Butler service: Xanadu Luxury Villas (5 villas, dedicated butler 24/7)
- Holistic spa: Zanzibar White Sand (Relais & Châteaux, Ayurvedic treatments)
- Eco-responsibility: Ycona Eco-Luxury Resort (solar panels, organic vegetable garden, zero plastic)
- Families: Tembo Kiwengwa Resort (3 pools, kids' club, all-inclusive)
- Total intimacy: Alma Boutique Hotel (10 rooms, 7 km beach, Jambiani) ✨