Mama Lova Hôtel, Riad, Restaurant & Spa

We recommend Mama Lova to couples in their thirties and forties seeking an intimate address, far from the impersonal large riads of the medina. It is a hotel for gourmets, lovers of market cuisine, travellers who enjoy chatting with the owners over mint tea. Families find their place thanks to connecting rooms and the welcome extended to children, yet the atmosphere remains hushed, conducive to rest.

The building is a traditional three-level Essaouira house, renovated in 2018 in a pared-back style that respects local architecture. White limewashed walls, sculpted thuya wood doors, central patio with blue zellige fountain from Fes. Rooms overlook either the patio or rue d'Agadir, moucharabieh windows filtering the light. Surfaces between 18 and 30 m², ceiling height 3.20 m, reversible air conditioning in all rooms.

The restaurant occupies the ground floor and patio terrace, open midday and evening for residents and outside guests. The chef-owner composes a daily menu according to the port market and organic vegetable deliveries from the region. We tasted the monkfish tagine with green olives, Friday couscous, briouates with prawns and fresh coriander. Breakfast served until 11am, homemade bread, citrus jams, msemen, freshly squeezed orange juice, coffee or tea at will. Room service available from 7am to 10pm, reduced menu after midnight.

Mama Lova stands on rue d'Agadir, a commercial artery linking Place Moulay Hassan to Bab Doukkala, right in the heart of the medina. Beach five minutes' walk through the Marine gate, fishing port seven minutes away, art galleries and marquetry workshops in the adjacent alleys. Essaouira-Mogador airport 18 km away, free shuttle on reservation, otherwise taxi at 150 dirhams. The neighbourhood is lively by day, calm after 10pm, very residential with local shops and a few discreet riads.